Mother’s Day memories and a slice of date & walnut loaf

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As it’s Mothering Sunday I thought I’d write about a recipe in Grandma’s book that reminds me not just of her, but of my own mum too. It also takes me back to my first days as a new mother 26 years ago when I celebrated my first Mother’s Day – the day after my daughter was born.

Grandma’s date and walnut cake was a family favourite – more of a loaf than a cake. It was served sliced and buttered and actually improved with keeping for a few days. It’s a recipe I will always associate with my childhood and my mum, Margaret. In fact in Edwardian Grandma’s notebook the recipe is written in pencil in my mum’s handwriting. I guess granny knew it off by heart because she made it so often and mum, who inherited the notebook, decided to carry on the tradition.

My mother came to stay after my daughter was born and filled my freezer with date and walnut loaves. I’m not quite sure why – I think she thought the dates and nuts were quite nutritious for a breast feeding mother!

Sadly my mum died 15 years ago but I’m pleased I still have this recipe in her neat handwriting. It brings backs so many memories – who’d think a tea loaf could do that?

it’s such an easy recipe – pretty foolproof, I’d say. I have no idea what size loaf tin you should use but I use a medium size one. At a push you could probably use a round cake tin.

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Date & Walnut Loaf

6 oz stoned dates
3 oz marg or butter
3oz sugar
8oz self raising flour
2oz walnut pieces
1teaspoon bicarbonate of soda dissolved in a little milk
1 tablespoon golden syrup

Preheat oven to gas mark 3
Grease and line loaf tin

Soften dates in a little water in pan on top of stove. Then add to marg and sugar. Pour a cup of boiling water over the mixture then add flour, walnuts, bicarbonate of soda and golden syrup. Mix well and pour into loaf tin.

Cook for 1 1/4 hours.

Keeps well. Slice and butter.

A Baker, a King and a Slice of Family History

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Guest blog by Ruth Badley née Miller 

My paternal grandfather was a master baker and by 1920 he owned his own shop in London. People would travel across the city to buy the bread, cakes and pastries made daily on the premises at Millers, 43 High Street, Camden Town.  The Miller family had extensive living accommodation above and behind the shop, which was just as well because the family was growing.  On the 1st May 1920 a third child was born to Aaron and his wife Annie – a son, they named Leslie.

Leslie was my father and much of the story that follows was told to me in a series of interviews I recorded with him in 2005. He died the following year so without those conversations the details of our family’s baking heritage would have disappeared for ever. I’m so glad I asked the questions and can share the answers with my two sons, my brother and his two daughters, in the book I compiled of his life story.

Aaron died many years before I was born and it is no exaggeration to say that his dedication to baking contributed to his early death, as I will explain. It is likely that Aaron’s ambition and drive was sparked by the achievements of his father, Solomon.

Census information and other records indicate that from 1881 to 1901, Aaron’s father, Solomon Miller, moved his family from lowly Whitechapel to a smarter address on Shaftesbury Avenue. Formerly a jewellery dealer, he opened his own bakery and confectioner’s shop on a site now occupied by the Ola Café and Bistro.

The young Aaron learned his trade in the shop and also at a high class patisserie on Oxford Street.  By 1911 he had his own shop in Camden Town whilst his father, mother, five sisters and three brothers moved from Shaftesbury Avenue to 104 Askew Road, Shepherds Bush, where they too ran a successful bread and cake shop until the early 1950s.

Of all Aaron’s four children, Leslie was the one that showed the most interest in the practical side of baking. During the day Aaron employed a number of specialist cooks and confectioners to make the cakes and pastries and then he worked with two other bread makers through the night. As a youngster Leslie was sometimes allowed to go into the bake house and help the pastry cooks, initially just going to the storerooms to fetch ingredients, but later learning alongside the professionals.

The family businesses were doing well in the 1920s and Aaron made what he believed to be some astute investments on the stock market. Like many others he was stung by huge losses in the wake of the Wall Street crash.

Both shops remained open during the Depression that followed but takings were low. People still needed bread but understandably cakes were regarded as luxury purchases by people without jobs.

By 1936 the situation started to improve. By this time Leslie was sixteen and it was clear that he had ability and an interest in baking and cooking. Aaron took advice on the best way to nurture this talent and Leslie was enrolled on a three year training course for chefs at Westminster College.

Life for the Miller family changed forever on 12th May 1937, the day of the Coronation of King George V1. The day was declared a public holiday and Aaron gave the night bakers the day off.  He had been chastened by the hard times of the previous years so rather than close the shop and lose business he decided that he would bake all the bread himself. He toiled through the night, lifting sacks of flour weighing 240 pounds on his back and in the early hours of the morning he came upstairs, calling for Leslie and clearly in terrible pain.

The doctor was sent for and Leslie’s uncles in Shepherds Bush were told he had been taken ill but nothing could be done. A heart attack proved fatal. Aaron was 59.

The people who worked for him and those in the shops around were devastated. On the day of the funeral the street outside the shop was packed with people that wanted to pay their respects. As the funeral procession went on its way to the cemetery, tram drivers took off their hats and a policeman on the street saluted.

Leslie’s mother Annie was a widow at 42. She took over the running of the shop, assisted by her daughter Ida.  Sadly Aaron didn’t live to see the success his son achieved in his chosen profession.  One of the top students in his year at Westminster College, Leslie went on to further training in Paris, returning to London to take up a position in the kitchens of the Russell Hotel where he was rapidly promoted until he was called up in 1939.

Leslie was stationed in Egypt until 1944. During this time he received a letter explaining that his mother and sister were safe but the shop in Camden Town had been bombed. The building behind had taken a direct hit and several homes and businesses on the High Street were destroyed in the blast.

After the war Leslie returned to the Russell Hotel as Head Chef. He met my mother Sylvia and they married in 1949. Unusually for the times, the guests were treated to cream gateaux, courtesy of the uncles who still ran the shop in Askew Road.

In 2011 a friend used some of this information to investigate my family tree. She discovered that 104 Askew Road is still a family owned artisan bakery called Laveli owned by

Slovakian husband and wife team, Libor and Veronica Matlovic. They make 12 types of bread, pastries, savouries and biscuits on the premises – just like the Millers before them.

A bit of Edwardian grandma’s family history & Mrs Waterhouse’s ginger snaps

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Edwardian grandma was born Martha Ellen (Nell) Dodd in the Parish of Church Coppenhall, Crewe, Cheshire in 1890. In the 1891 census her father James is described as a labourer in the famous Crewe railway works.

By the 1911 census Nell and her widowed father are living in West Hartlepool, Co Durham. His name on the census is Bennett not James and his occupation is retired ship plater and riveter. I have no idea why he moved from railway engineering in the North West to ship building in the North East, but my grandma remained in Hartlepool for the rest of her life.

According to the 1911 census Bennett (or James) and Nell had a live in servant Hannah Gard, aged 18, and my grandmother was working in a ‘fancy bazaar’. She used to speak of managing a hat shop – was this the same ‘fancy bazaar’?

Nell’s Edwardian life was no Downton Abbey. She certainly wasn’t upper class but she hadn’t been in service in a large house either. However, she had been a lady’s companion – a rather genteel occupation of which she was very proud.

Edwardian grandma’s simple tea time recipes seem to be typical of the lower middles classes of the time. Here’s Mrs Waterhouse’s recipe for ginger snaps – very popular in the 1920s and 30s.

The original recipe uses lard – I couldn’t bring myself to use all lard so have used half lard/ half butter. It includes treacle, but grandma always referred to golden syrup as ‘treacle’ so I’ve used that. The biscuits spread out quite a bit while cooking. They’re very gingery with a good ‘snap’ to them

Mrs Waterhouse’s ginger snaps

8oz self raising flour
4oz sugar
1 egg
2 teaspoon ground ginger
4oz golden syrup
3oz lard or half lard and butter

Preheat oven to gas no 2

Melt syrup and lard/butter in pan and add other ingredients. Roll into small balls and place on greased baking trays. Cook near top of oven for half an hour.

Note: I have a fan oven so cooked on 150 degrees for about 20 minutes. Gas mark 2 seems quite low – I found recipes which use gas mark 4.

Mrs Waudby’s scones

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In the first page of Grandma’s little red book is Mrs Waudby’s recipe for scones. I don’t remember Mrs Waudby but I have a picture of her in my head. She’d be one of those stalwarts of the Church of England – efficient and a bit bossy. Rather like Edwardian grandma in fact.

They probably went to Mothers’ Union lunches together and whist drives. Perhaps Mrs Waudby took along a plate of her scones. I like to think she was famous for her scones, which is why they feature in Edwardian grandma’s book.

Unusually for recipes in grandma’s book there is an oven temperature, but no reference to how long to cook the scones. I’m giving the amounts in the original imperial measurements.

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Ingredients
4 oz self raising flour
1oz lard
1 oz sugar
Currants
2 tablespoons milk & water

Oven gas mark 6 or 7, top shelf

At the bottom of the handwritten original recipe is a note which seems to read “better cakes in cake tin”. I have no idea what this means. Did Mrs Waudby bake her scones in a cake tin? I baked mine on greased baking trays.

I doubled the ingredients and this made 10 – 12 dainty scones (I used a 2 inch diameter cutter).

Lard isn’t an ingredient I use very often and I was surprised to see it in scones. However, the National Trust’s traditional teatime recipe book recommends half lard and half butter so it’s obviously quite traditional. I suspect it was an economy measure too.

I made several batches of scones. One batch entirely by hand and using all lard, another by hand using half lard and half butter and one batch in a food processor using lard and butter. I brushed the tops with milk. I also made a batch of cheese scones – using about 2 oz of grated strong cheese in place of half of the fat. Of course, I dropped the currants and sugar, but added some salt.

I took care not to over handle the dough and not to roll it out too thinly (no instructions from Mrs Waudby on that – I remembered a tip from Delia).

I baked the scones in a fan oven at 190C for around 12 minutes, They all rose beautifully. I preferred the taste of the half lard, half butter version. The inclusion of some lard does seem to give a lovely crumbly texture.

So, well done Mrs Waudby – your scones are a winner.

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An Edwardian grandma’s recipes

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One of my last links with my Edwardian grandma is a scruffy dark red ‘Century’ brand notebook with handwritten recipes on cheap lined paper. Grandma Bond’s book contains recipes for biscuits, cakes and puddings but no savoury food. Most entries name the person who gave her the recipe – “Date & Walnut Loaf – Mrs Waterhouse”, “Bakewell Tart – Maud Booth”.

Grandma Bond was a wonderful and prolific baker. There were always homemade cakes, biscuits and pastries for tea – shop bought cakes were considered “common”.

Edwardian grandma had two sons and no daughters. The little red book was passed onto my mother (her daughter-in-law) then onto me. My late mother and I added to the book and I try to keep up the tradition of accrediting the recipes to the person who gave it to me.

I make Christmas cakes and puddings to grandma’s recipes – and Mrs Waterhouse’s date and walnut loaf has always been a family favourite – but until now I haven’t tried all the recipes. There are few instructions and often no oven temperatures or timings but I’m going to give them a go and share my successes and failures here.